The brand describes itself as having been born in the French Pyrenees and raised in Monaco.2

The name Biotherm derives from the combination of biology and thermal water. The brand’s origin story centres on thermal springs at Molitg-les-Bains in the French Pyrenees, where Dr Jos Jullien observed a substance rich in microorganisms associated with the thermal waters. Jeanine Marissal, a biochemist, subsequently identified the potential for incorporating this material into cosmetic formulations.3 This discovery established the foundational concept of using the biological resources of water to develop skincare, a principle that remains central to the brand more than 70 years later.

1940s: Discovery

In 1948, Dr Jos Jullien, working in hydrobiology laboratories associated with Molitg-les-Bains, observed an unusual microorganism in the thermal waters. Together with Georges Marissal, he collected and cultivated samples of what was identified as thermal plankton.3 Jeanine Marissal, a biochemist and beauty specialist, recognised that this material could potentially be incorporated into skincare products.

1952: Establishment

In 1952, Jeanine Marissal patented the use of thermal plankton in skincare, establishing the foundation of Biotherm. The company initially developed products incorporating this ingredient into face and body care formulations.14 One of the earliest products was Biomains, a hand and nail treatment which remains in the product portfolio today.3 The brand was notable for its time due to its combination of cosmetics, biological research, thermal water culture, natural ingredients, scientific formulation and sensory skincare experiences. Biotherm also pioneered the sale of its products through pharmacies rather than relying exclusively on traditional beauty channels.3

A significant turning point occurred in 1970 when Biotherm was acquired by L’Oréal.3 This acquisition provided Biotherm with access to expanded research infrastructure, manufacturing capabilities, international distribution networks, marketing resources and scientific expertise. Following the acquisition, Biotherm continued to develop its identity as a science-driven premium skincare brand. In 1974, Biotherm opened a research centre and production facility in Monaco, which was inaugurated by Princess Grace of Monaco.2 The brand remains part of L’Oréal Luxe today.3

Biotherm has historically demonstrated innovation in creating skincare categories aligned with evolving consumer lifestyles.

1960s

The company expanded beyond basic facial skincare into body care, sun protection, firming products and slimming or body-contouring products. Its history includes the development of an early sunscreen in 1961, followed by various body and firming treatments.2

1970s

During this decade, Biotherm increasingly connected skincare with lifestyle and leisure, particularly focusing on sun, body care and water. The brand also developed products targeting increasingly specific skincare concerns.

1980s: Men’s skincare

One of Biotherm’s most significant innovations occurred in 1985 with the launch of Biotherm Homme. The brand describes this as the first premium selective skincare range specifically developed for men, helping to establish men’s skincare as a significant category within premium beauty.14 This line became one of the defining pillars of the Biotherm brand.

Life Plankton™ is the ingredient most strongly associated with Biotherm. The brand’s current technology originates from its research into thermal plankton. In 1994, after years of research, Biotherm developed a fermentation process called Fermogénèse™ to obtain a concentrated fraction from Life Plankton.2 Biotherm describes Life Plankton as a microorganism-derived biotechnology ingredient and a key component of its formulations. Modern Biotherm formulations do not simply incorporate thermal spring water; rather, the proposition has evolved from aquatic biology to biotechnology, active ingredients and skincare formulations. The company states that its biotechnology platform enables it to cultivate Biotech Plankton™ and produce ingredients with controlled characteristics and high purity.3

Biotherm occupies a distinct position between several beauty categories.

Science-driven rather than purely natural

While Biotherm uses naturally inspired and aquatic-derived ingredients, it is fundamentally a science and biotechnology-driven skincare company. The brand explicitly states it is not a “clean beauty” brand according to strict industry definitions, describing its approach instead as science-based and combining biotechnology with naturally inspired ingredients.2

Premium lifestyle rather than clinical dermatology

Although Biotherm focuses strongly on efficacy and dermatological testing, its positioning aligns more closely with premium lifestyle skincare than clinical pharmacy skincare.

Scientific premium rather than traditional luxury

As part of L’Oréal Luxe, Biotherm’s identity is less focused on traditional luxury codes such as haute couture, heritage craftsmanship or exclusivity. Instead, its luxury proposition derives from science, sensorial textures, premium formulations and aquatic inspiration.

Biotherm’s contemporary brand positioning is built around the concept of “Skin Fitness”, which compares healthy skin with a physically fit body. The underlying philosophy posits that just as exercise supports bodily performance, skincare can support the skin’s natural biological functions. Biotherm states that its Skin Fitness approach focuses on six aspects of skin function:

1. Skin energy
2. Skin recovery
3. Skin balance
4. Skin rehydration
5. Skin defence
6. Skin building

The brand combines this philosophy with Biotech Plankton and targeted ingredients such as collagen and vitamins.3 This represents a shift from simple moisturisation claims towards maintaining the skin in optimal functional condition.

Facial skincare

The facial skincare portfolio includes moisturisers, serums, lotions, toners, eye treatments, anti-ageing products, cleansing products and sun care. Well-known product families include Aquasource, Life Plankton and Blue Therapy.

Body care

Body care is integral to Biotherm’s heritage. The brand has historically been associated with body milk, body moisturisers, firming products, body treatments and shower products. Lait Corporel body milk remains one of the brand’s most recognisable products.

Men’s skincare

Biotherm Homme constitutes a major part of the company’s identity. The portfolio includes cleansers, moisturisers, anti-ageing products, shaving and after-shave products, eye care and body care. Biotherm’s early investment in men’s skincare has provided the brand with substantial historical credibility in this category.2

Aquasource

Aquasource is one of Biotherm’s best-known hydration-focused franchises, centred on intensive hydration and traditionally associated with the brand’s aquatic identity.

Life Plankton™

Life Plankton serves as Biotherm’s signature scientific platform. Rather than being a single product, Life Plankton is incorporated into multiple Biotherm formulations.

Blue Therapy

Blue Therapy is a major anti-ageing and skin-repair franchise designed to address visible signs of ageing.

Lait Corporel

Lait Corporel is a renowned body-care line, particularly recognised for its body milk format and citrus-like sensory profile.

Homme and Aquapower

The men’s portfolio includes Aquapower, one of Biotherm Homme’s best-known hydration franchises.

Force Supreme

Force Supreme is a men’s anti-ageing line positioned to promote stronger, firmer-looking and more youthful skin. The current product portfolio also includes newer lines such as Collagen Fit and Aquasource+.14

Water is the central symbol of Biotherm. The company’s history began with thermal water and aquatic microorganisms, leading the brand to build its identity around the concept of being “Water Lovers”. In 2012, Biotherm established the Water Lovers programme, connecting its business operations with marine and ocean conservation.2 This marked an evolution from viewing water solely as a source of skincare science in 1952, to aquatic biotechnology in the 1990s, ocean conservation in the 2010s, and a current focus combining biotechnology, skin health and sustainability.

Blue Beauty

Biotherm’s environmental platform is termed Blue Beauty. The brand’s sustainability efforts focus specifically on water and oceans. Since 2012, Biotherm has worked with organisations including Mission Blue, Tara Ocean Foundation and Surfrider Foundation Europe on initiatives encompassing ocean research, conservation, education and marine pollution mitigation.14 The company reports having donated more than US$1.5 million to NGO partners since 2012.2 Sustainability measures also extend to formulation; Biotherm states that its rinse-off formulas achieved a minimum of 90% biodegradability in 2011, and microbeads were banned from rinse-off products in the same year.2

Biotherm’s identity comprises five core elements:

1. Water: The fundamental symbol of the brand.
2. Biology: Founded on biological material from thermal water.
3. Biotechnology: Utilisation of controlled biological processes to develop active ingredients.
4. Sensory skincare: Emphasis on textures, fragrance and application experience.
5. Skin Fitness: Connecting skincare with an active, healthy lifestyle.3

Historically associated with women seeking premium skincare, Biotherm has progressively broadened its audience. Current target consumers include those interested in premium skincare, hydration, anti-ageing solutions, biotechnology, aquatic ingredients, active lifestyles and men’s skincare, as well as consumers who prefer sensorial rather than purely clinical products. The men’s division provides a distinctive position compared with many traditional premium skincare brands.

L’Oréal acquired Biotherm in 1970, and the brand currently sits within the L’Oréal Luxe division.34 This ownership structure allows Biotherm to retain its original identity, product franchises, scientific narrative, aquatic positioning and sustainability platform whilst accessing L’Oréal’s global research, manufacturing and distribution ecosystem.

Sources: Biotherm and L’Oréal official historical accounts.14

Strengths

Biotherm possesses over 70 years of history, providing substantial credibility in skincare. Life Plankton and aquatic biotechnology offer a distinctive scientific territory, while the brand maintains strong equity around hydration and water. Biotherm Homme secures a historically important position in premium men’s skincare. Backing from L’Oréal provides extensive research, manufacturing and global distribution capabilities. Furthermore, because water is central to the brand’s origin, ocean conservation aligns coherently with its narrative rather than appearing as an unrelated corporate social responsibility message.

Challenges

The premium skincare market is highly competitive, with rivals emphasising dermatology, luxury, natural ingredients, K-beauty, biotechnology or clinical results. Communicating the Life Plankton story requires greater explanation compared to widely recognised ingredients like hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. Additionally, a water and ocean-focused beauty company faces the paradox of convincing consumers that its packaging, ingredients and manufacturing practices align with its environmental claims. Finally, Biotherm must balance its valuable 1952 heritage with the need to remain relevant to younger consumers.

1. Explore Biotherms Origins and Brand Story
2. Our Origins – Blue Beauty – Biotherm born in France since 1952
3. L’Oréal Group Visionaries: Jeanine Marissal, Biochimist, Entrepreneur, Founder of Biotherm
4. Brand Story | Biotherm