Le Labo traces its origins to 2006, when its founders opened their first “lab” at 233 Elizabeth Street in New York’s Nolita neighbourhood. The venture was established with the ambition of creating a “scented revolution” that challenged conventional perfumery norms.

Le Labo is French for “The Laboratory”. This nomenclature is integral to the brand’s philosophy; rather than positioning itself as a traditional perfume maison, it deliberately adopts the visual and linguistic vocabulary of a scientific laboratory. Key conceptual pillars include formulation, ingredients, technicians, freshly blended perfume, numbered creations, personalisation, and craftsmanship.

Consequently, a Le Labo boutique typically resembles an apothecary, workshop, or laboratory more closely than a conventional luxury perfume counter. Upon its launch in 2006, this concept was distinctive within the market. The founders sought to challenge the standardised, mass-produced nature of mainstream fragrance, presenting perfume instead as a crafted object and personal ritual. Contemporary accounts describe its early positioning as artisanal, unisex, and deliberately divergent from industry conventions 2.

Le Labo was established by two French nationals:

Fabrice Penot

A fragrance industry professional and co-founder of Le Labo.

Edouard “Eddie” Roschi

Penot’s co-founder and business and creative partner.

Both founders had prior experience in the fragrance sector before deciding to build an entity fundamentally different from traditional perfume marketing 3. In 2006, they opened the first Le Labo laboratory at 233 Elizabeth Street, Nolita, New York City. This location is significant to the brand’s mythology; emerging from downtown New York rather than a Parisian salon, it established a dual identity characterised by French perfumery expertise combined with New York cultural attitude 4.

Fresh formulation

A primary innovation of Le Labo was integrating the preparation of perfume into the product experience. Whereas traditional luxury perfume emphasises the finished bottle and packaging heritage, Le Labo highlights the process: ingredients, formulation, laboratory, technician, fresh preparation, and personalisation. This approach renders the bottle less like an industrially manufactured object and more like a bespoke creation. The brand’s refill system extends this philosophy, allowing participating laboratories to freshly blend perfume rather than simply exchanging factory-filled bottles 5.

Packaging and labelling

The Le Labo label is among the most recognisable packaging designs in modern niche fragrance. Bottles typically feature clear glass, a black cap, and a white rectangular label with black typography displaying the perfume name, a number, ingredient information, and optional personalisation. Examples include SANTAL 33, ANOTHER 13, ROSE 31, and THÉ NOIR 29. The aesthetic intentionally mimics a laboratory specimen label. Customers may personalise labels with up to 23 characters, reinforcing the notion that luxury lies in individual ownership rather than excessive decoration 6.

Numbered nomenclature

Fragrances are identified by names such as SANTAL 33, ROSE 31, THÉ NOIR 29, BERGAMOTE 22, NEROLI 36, VETIVER 46, and ANOTHER 13. These numbers generally relate to aspects of the fragrance’s formulation or creative development rather than serving as mere product generation codes. This convention reinforces the perception of the perfume as a formula or laboratory creation.

Genderless positioning

Le Labo does not categorise its main perfumes into traditional “men’s” and “women’s” segments. Fragrances are intended for any individual who responds to them, a stance that was significant given the gender-segregated marketing prevalent at the time of the brand’s emergence.

Ingredient focus

Compositions often centre on specific raw materials or olfactory ideas. Examples include sandalwood (SANTAL 33), rose (ROSE 31), neroli (NEROLI 36), vetiver (VETIVER 46), patchouli (PATCHOULI 24), and black tea (THÉ NOIR 29). The resulting scents are typically abstract interpretations rather than literal representations of these ingredients.

Minimalist presentation

Packaging is intentionally restrained, eschewing ornate boxes, celebrity endorsements, or prominent logos in favour of a laboratory aesthetic. This approach exemplifies “quiet luxury” before the term entered mainstream usage.

Atmospheric storytelling

Rather than listing notes, Le Labo frequently constructs narrative scenes around fragrances. For instance, SANTAL 33 is presented through imagery of open fire, smoke, the American West, and wilderness, alongside descriptions of cardamom, iris, violet, Australian sandalwood, cedarwood, and spicy, leathery, musky facets 7.

SANTAL 33

SANTAL 33 transformed Le Labo from a niche brand into a global cultural phenomenon. It remains one of the most recognisable niche fragrances of the 2010s and 2020s. According to the brand, its profile combines sandalwood, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, leather, musk, and spicy facets 8. Distinctively dry, woody, smoky, and leathery, it differs markedly from simple sandalwood perfumes. Its prominence arose from its unisex appeal, minimalist bottle design, association with creative industries, and visibility in hospitality and fashion sectors.

ANOTHER 13

ANOTHER 13 originated in 2010 as a commission for AnOther Magazine, facilitated through Colette and involving editor-in-chief Jefferson Hack 9. Centred on ambroxyde (a synthetic musk) combined with jasmine and moss, it is characterised as musky, clean, skin-like, airy, and minimalist 10. Initially a collaboration exclusive, it subsequently joined the permanent Classic Collection 11.

The current Classic Collection encompasses numerous fragrances beyond the signature scents 12:

As the collection evolves, the official catalogue should be consulted for current availability 13.

Le Labo created the City Exclusive Collection to associate specific fragrances with individual cities, operating on the principle of “one city, one special fragrance”. Historically, these scents were available primarily in their respective home cities. Under current policy, samples are available worldwide in August–September, while full-size Eau de Parfums become globally accessible in September; outside this window, they remain exclusive to their home cities year-round 14. This strategy utilises scarcity as a form of brand storytelling, linking fragrance to geography and travel.

Current City Exclusives

For example, CITRON 28 (Seoul) features lemon, ginger, jasmine, cedar, and musk, while OSMANTHUS 19 (Kyoto) interprets the city through osmanthus, incense, lavender, and woody elements 1516.

While fundamentally a fragrance house, Le Labo has evolved into a broader sensory lifestyle brand 17:

• Fine fragrance: Eau de Parfum, discovery samples, discovery sets, travel tubes.
• Home: Classic candles, City Exclusive candles, home fragrances, diffusers.
• Body: Body lotion, body oil, hand cream, hand soap, shower gel, body bar, liquid balm.
• Hair: Shampoo, conditioner.
• Other: Grooming products, sets, personalised items.

Candles adhere to the same minimalist, laboratory-aesthetic philosophy as perfumes, with SANTAL 26 being a notable home creation 18.

Personalisation

Customers may personalise fragrance and box labels with up to 23 characters 24. This service transforms a standardised product into a bespoke item, enhancing its suitability for gifts and personal collections.

Refill Programme

Le Labo operates a dedicated Refill Programme based on the principle of reusing the same bottle for the same scent. Eligible empty 50 ml or 100 ml bottles can be returned for refilling and relabelling, typically at approximately 20% below retail price 26. Participating physical laboratories also offer in-person refills. Freshly compounded Eau de Parfum undergoes maceration for at least 14 days to develop its olfactory profile 19.

Le Labo emphasises the provenance of its materials and the artisans involved. Official materials highlight sources such as sandalwood from Kimberley, Australia; rose from Grasse, France; bergamot from Reggio Calabria, Italy; concrete candles from Charleston, USA; diffusers from Brooklyn, USA; neon signs from New York; and denim totes from Okayama, Japan 20. This narrative frames perfume as a product of global craft rather than anonymous industrial manufacturing.

Le Labo stores are designed to differ from conventional department store counters, featuring wooden furniture, laboratory bottles, industrial details, exposed materials, and visible preparation areas. Staff are designated as “Lab Technicians” rather than sales associates, reinforcing the artisanal, experiential nature of the purchase 21. The environment is intended to immerse customers in the world where the perfume is made, selling the ritual surrounding the fragrance as much as the product itself.

In October 2014, The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Le Labo, classifying it within its prestige fragrance and sensory lifestyle portfolio 27. This acquisition is often cited as a successful transition from niche to global luxury. While retaining its distinctive identity, Le Labo gained access to extensive resources. Today, it operates as a globally recognised luxury fragrance house with distribution across North America, Europe, Asia, the Middle East, and other regions 25. It is best described as a luxury house with niche-perfumery DNA rather than a small independent entity.

Le Labo helped redefine luxury perfumery by prioritising craftsmanship, ingredients, minimalism, individuality, and place over glamour and celebrity. Its coherent brand universe—encompassing laboratory aesthetics, numbered naming, personalisation, and city-specific scents—has been highly influential. Many subsequent brands have adopted similar minimalist labels, ingredient-focused naming, and gender-neutral positioning.

The brand relies less on traditional advertising than on product recognition (particularly of SANTAL 33 and ANOTHER 13), word of mouth, retail experience, scarcity (City Exclusives), and cultural associations with fashion, design, and hospitality. This represents a modern form of luxury branding where the aesthetic appears expensive without conventional opulence.

Le Labo possesses a strong visual identity, iconic hero products, a distinctive retail experience, and high cultural relevance. However, considerations include premium pricing relative to mainstream brands, the ubiquity of SANTAL 33 reducing its exclusivity, potential brand saturation as distribution expands, imitation of its aesthetic by competitors, and performance variations due to individual skin chemistry.

• 2006: Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi establish Le Labo in New York and open the first laboratory at 233 Elizabeth Street 22.
• 2010: ANOTHER 13 is created through a collaboration involving AnOther Magazine and Colette.
• 2010s: SANTAL 33 becomes the defining global fragrance; international following develops.
• 2014: The Estée Lauder Companies acquires Le Labo 27.
• 2010s–2020s: International expansion, development of City Exclusive concept, growth into body, hair, and home categories.
• Today: Operates as a global luxury fragrance and sensory-lifestyle house maintaining laboratory, personalisation, and craftsmanship identity 23.

1. ABOUT US | Le Labo Fragrances
2. Le Labo
3. Spotlight on Le Labo
4. Who Founded Le Labo? | Osmetheca
5. Refill Program | FAQ | Le Labo Fragrances
6. Personalization | Le Labo Fragrances
7. OUR CREATIONS | Le Labo Fragrances
8. SANTAL 33 | Sample | Le Labo Fragrances
9. OUR CREATIONS | Le Labo Fragrances
10. ANOTHER 13
11. EAU DE PARFUM | Le Labo Fragrances
12. DISCOVERY | Classic Collection | Le Labo Fragrances
13. City Exclusive Collection | FAQ | Le Labo Fragrances
14. The City Exclusive Event | Le Labo Fragrances
15. CITRON 28 | Seoul City Exclusive | Le Labo Fragrances
16. OSMANTHUS 19 | Kyoto City Exclusive | Le Labo Fragrances
17. Store Locator | Le Labo Fragrances
18. The History of Le Labo | Perfume Finder
19. el-20240630
20. el-20230630
21. el-20220630
22. How Le Labo Scaled Up Without Losing Its Soul | Global Cosmetic Industry
23. Cult perfume brand Le Labo and the chemistry – personal and actual – behind its success | South China Morning Post
24. Personalization | Le Labo Fragrances
25. Store Locator | Le Labo Fragrances
26. Refill Program | FAQ | Le Labo Fragrances
27. Le Labo – The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.